I - The Philosophy

Ura-masari

The Beauty Within

A jacket worn not for show,

but for what it stands for.

During the Edo period, the shogunate issued sumptuary laws again and again, forbidding townspeople from displaying their wealth through what they wore. Even the materials and colors of their clothing were restricted.

The townspeople obeyed. On the surface. Outside, they wore quiet shades of brown and gray. Inside their haori coats, where no one could see, they hid patterns and dyes more elaborate than anything on the outside. Not to show anyone. Only so that they would know. Restriction became an aesthetic. This is Ura-Masari.

THE URAh is a varsity jacket built on this idea. Outside, deep black melton wool and Kurozan leather. From a few steps away, it looks like nothing more than a quiet jacket. But inside is a jacquard lining woven in Kyoto, placed where only the wearer can see it. Only those who come close will notice. The one who wears it has known from the start.

Read The Philosophy

II — The Four Linings

Four Colors,

Worn Beneath.

Hidden in Plain Sight

  • No. 01

    Kokiake

    A deep scarlet of the ancient court

  • No. 02

    Kinran

    Woven gold of the tea masters

  • No. 03

    Ruri

    The lapis blue of the seven treasures

  • No. 04

    Moegi

    The spring green of the Heike warriors

III — The Craft

Forged in Four

Corners of Japan.

  • the-urah-bishu-melton-wool

    No. i

    Bishu Melton Wool

    Bishu, Aichi — Japan's largest wool-weaving region, since the Meiji era




    To Bisyu 
  • the-urah-himeji-kurozan-leather

    No. ii

    Himeji Kurozan Leather

    Himeji, Hyogo — Black wagyu, layered with urushi lacquer


    To Himeji 
  • the-urah-kyo-ori-jacquard

    No. iii

    Kyoto Jacquard

    Kyoto — A jacquard lining, woven from punched pattern cards


    To Kyoto 
  • the-urah-hanyu-tailoring

    N° iv

    Hanyu Tailoring

    Hanyu, Saitama — Where the materials of three regions become one jacket



    To Hanyu 

IV — The Heritage

The Spirit We Inherit

1872

The Dual Revolution

Revolution No. 01

The Jacquard Crossing.

Kyoto × Lyon

In 1872, Kyoto Prefecture sent weavers from Nishijin across the sea to Lyon, France, in search of a technology they had never seen. With the capital moved to Tokyo, Nishijin faced a struggle to survive. A city that had woven for a thousand years judged that tradition alone could not carry it forward. That decision itself was the revolution. The jacquard looms they brought home modernized Nishijin's weaving, and Kyoto's craft joined hands with the wider world.

Revolution No. 02

The Paradigm Shift.

From Kimono to Western Dress

In the same year, a proclamation by the Meiji government declared that official ceremonial dress would no longer be Japanese, but Western. A system of dress centered on the imperial court for a thousand years turned on a single proclamation. From here, Japan's formal wear set its course toward the West.
the-urah-japan-apparel-paradigm-shift

1872. Kyoto's weavers crossed the sea, and Japan's formal dress turned toward the West.
2026. Carrying that spirit, we attempt a third.
The handwork of four regions of Japan, joined to the American varsity jacket.

What it will be called is yet to be written.

ONE JACKET. MADE TO BE KEPT.
SEASON ONE — THE VARSITY JACKET

ONE JACKET.
MADE TO BE KEPT.

Shell
Bishu Melton Wool
Leather Sleeves
Himeji Kurozan Leather, Hand-Lacquered
Lining
Kyoori Jacquard Four Colorways
Tailoring
Hanyu Made In Japan
Quantity
Limited pieces
OWN IT
Tax and shipping included $1,980